Cpt.Spazmo
In Cryo Sleep
Paint wise you might try the P3 range (liquid pigment great coverage) or Coat d'arms Paints (the original citadel paints so all those colours you loved and the inks). Just so you know the Coat paints are still mixed by eye so some consistency problems can and will arise.
Vallejo's range come with dropper bottles, great for paint formula and mixes, unless it gets clogged and you get paint splatter
I've personally found they seem to be less 'hard waring', even with gloss then matt or satin varnish coats, mold release washing and latex gloves, than other ranges. Your mileage may vary.
Reaper are also a good choice and range though I've only used a few and some of their master series paint brushes (very nice though Winsor&Newton series 7 remain my personal favorites).
Personally I use mainly P3, GW (esp. foundations and washes) ral partha paints (defunct *sob*, was re-release by iron wind I believe) and Coat inks. You might also look at the uses of flow improver (water with a touch of fairy liquid if you're going cheap), drying retarder and varnish (basically GW washes are inks with matt varnish and flow improver pre-mixed).
Then you can get funky effects with acrylic gels etc. and using oil based paints as well (only under acrylics or on varnished acrylics. Oils produce very smooth blends without any of the bother of glazing etc.). Weather pigments are another step (MIG or forge world) as are pre-paint techniques like pre-shading and coloured undercoats (army painter has a large range but be careful as a coloured undercoat may tint any colour painted over it).
Then we got source, extreme or zentel lighting, non-metalic metals, air brushing, dipping and more general stuff like colour theory (a colour wheel is a good buy).
Might be teaching your granny to suck eggs or the above might be useful, hopefully the latter
Vallejo's range come with dropper bottles, great for paint formula and mixes, unless it gets clogged and you get paint splatter
I've personally found they seem to be less 'hard waring', even with gloss then matt or satin varnish coats, mold release washing and latex gloves, than other ranges. Your mileage may vary.Reaper are also a good choice and range though I've only used a few and some of their master series paint brushes (very nice though Winsor&Newton series 7 remain my personal favorites).
Personally I use mainly P3, GW (esp. foundations and washes) ral partha paints (defunct *sob*, was re-release by iron wind I believe) and Coat inks. You might also look at the uses of flow improver (water with a touch of fairy liquid if you're going cheap), drying retarder and varnish (basically GW washes are inks with matt varnish and flow improver pre-mixed).
Then you can get funky effects with acrylic gels etc. and using oil based paints as well (only under acrylics or on varnished acrylics. Oils produce very smooth blends without any of the bother of glazing etc.). Weather pigments are another step (MIG or forge world) as are pre-paint techniques like pre-shading and coloured undercoats (army painter has a large range but be careful as a coloured undercoat may tint any colour painted over it).
Then we got source, extreme or zentel lighting, non-metalic metals, air brushing, dipping and more general stuff like colour theory (a colour wheel is a good buy).
Might be teaching your granny to suck eggs or the above might be useful, hopefully the latter
